Japan, read slowly.

Essays on travel, food, and everyday life in Japan — for the trip you are planning, and the one you are still dreaming about.

Latest essays

  1. Connectivity

    eSIM or pocket wifi: how to stay connected in Japan

    Two questions settle it before you even land: does your phone support eSIM, and how many of you are traveling together? Current rates and the fine print that trips people up, as of this writing.

  2. Culture

    The quiet rules of the onsen

    Hot-spring bathing looks intimidating from the outside. In practice, almost every rule comes down to a single idea: keep the shared water clean.

  3. Transport

    Do you actually need a Japan Rail Pass?

    The pass used to be an automatic yes for first-time visitors. After the 2023 price rise, the honest answer is: do the math for your route first.